RV Expert Andy Dietz shares his 25 years of technical expertise as he tends to your questions.*
Q: Our motorhome has been stored in Fort Myers, FL for several months. When I recently checked the house batteries, one had a pool of liquid on top of it, and the water was low in all of its cells. The other had water in all cells. Do you have any idea what is happening or has happened?
A: If your coach was plugged in the whole time it was in storage, there is a good chance the battery that has the water in it is actually the bad one. It may have had a bad cell which caused the converter to run constantly to try to charge it which ultimately over-boiled the good battery. At this point, if it is not bad, it has been weakened. A hydrometer will help you determine this. These are very inexpensive and can be purchased at Walmart or most auto parts stores. When you store your coach for long periods of time, if it is plugged in, you need to check the water in the battery cells at least monthly (preferably bi-weekly). If this is not possible then you are better off charging the batteries and then disconnecting them until you return. Also, if the coach will be plugged in, be sure to turn off the breaker to the converter to stop its 12V output.
Q: While in storage from Oct-Jan in south Florida, some of the floor tiles in front of our bathroom sink have lifted, moved and warped. The other floor tiles were okay. We had some weather in the low 80s during this period, but nothing higher than that. I looked for signs of a leak or spill but found none. It is interesting to note that the adhesive on the lifted tiles still seemed tacky. Any idea what caused this?
A: By description, your tile appears to have lifted as a result of heat. In Florida, a closed up vehicle stored in the sun in 70 to 80 degree weather can easily reach 100 degrees or better. If the tile that lifted is in a stress area or it is pressed into place with surrounding pressure, it will be the first to give way in the heat. Although the adhesive is still tacky, it lifts up because it has too much surrounding pressure.
Q: Our 2006 motorhome is showing signs of rust on the metal frame around the storage area. The rust is hidden when the storage door is closed, but it looks bad when the door is open. What can I paint the rusted area with to stop it from rusting further?
A: You should first remove as much of the rust as you can. There is a press-on gasket around the perimeter of the opening of the compartment when you open the door. You will have to remove the gasket to get to the rust area. Once you have removed the gasket, wire brush all of the loose rust material until you feel that what is left will not easily fall off. There are several rust-prohibiting products that you can apply at this point. I suggest One Step Rust Killer (interstateproducts.com). You brush it on, and it not only seals the surface but prevents it from rusting. Once it is has completely cured you can prime and paint the surface the color you desire and replace either the gasket you removed or if you choose, put a new gasket on.
Q: We need to re-seal our rubber roof. Is there a product that you suggest?
A: If it is just a matter of resealing seams and fixtures, not the whole roof, I recommend using Dicor Lap sealant. It’s a self-leveling lap sealant that works well on rubber roofs. It comes in white, beige and tan. If your rubber roof is tacked down good and needs to be completely resealed, I recommend “Roof in a Bucket.” All you need to do is thoroughly clean your roof and remove any of the old sealant that has loosened. Then you apply the sealant with a roller and let it cure for 24 hours. Of course you have to tape things off (like when you paint your house) to keep from making a mess but when applied carefully and correctly, this product really works and looks nice.
Andy Dietz has committed the last 25 years of his professional life to Lazydays and to the RV industry. From morning to night, weekdays and weekends, you will find Andy hard at work making “customers for life” with every one that he meets. He has worked in virtually all phases of RV service operations including delivery, wood working and chassis. Andy is a RVIA/RVDA Master Certified technician, but more importantly, he is a master problem solver. Known to many as a “go-to-guy”, Andy is especially relied upon for situations that aren’t clearly defined or documented.
*The views expressed herein are solely the opinions of the author. No information should be relied upon until it is verified by a manufacturer or a qualified technician. Neither Lazydays nor its employees or agents are liable for any claims of any kind arising from the use of this information.