RV Toolbox

BY FRED SMITH FEBRUARY 2010

Troubleshootin’ with Ernie

Checking for “Draws” on Your RV’s Battery

In this Better RVing video, everybody’s favorite Lazydays RV technician Ernie “The RV Guy” gives owners a battery of information about RV batteries, and what to do when yours leaves you powerless.

Troubleshootin’ Articles:
Installing a New Kitchen Faucet
Cleaning Your RV’s A/C Filter
Using a Level Gauge Cleaner
Checking for “Draws” on Your RV’s Battery
Properly Rolling Up Your Awning
Unclogging Your Sani-Con System
Fightin’ Foul Odors in Your RV
Using a Voltmeter in Your RV
Fixing Your Multiplex System

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Comments

Steve Roddy

Jun. 15, 2011 - 09:59 AM

A pulsating draw could be a LP detector. When you need to identify a draw, pull one fuse at a time until the draw is eliminated.

Randy (SE Wisconsin)

Jun. 13, 2011 - 08:02 PM

This article/video was extremely helpful. I have a 2011 Sunova 35J that keeps draining the batteries. So I hooked the test light up to the battery. The test light pulses on and off once every second telling me there is a draw somewhere.

Terry (Florida)

Jan. 08, 2011 - 12:39 PM

Bat. Drain Problem solved. Replaced two bad solenoids and removed wire someone connected between Alternator and house bat. positive, to bypass a bad solenoid. Test for drain - had to wait 30 min. for relay to time out.

Terry (Florida)

Jan. 07, 2011 - 03:42 PM

By the way, my previous post is with the house battery completetly un-hooked if that matters - I have an appointment Tuesday with Ford service. I can t pinpoint that fluttering sound behind the dashboard instrument panel.

Terry (Florida)

Jan. 07, 2011 - 12:47 PM

From the Ford fuse panel, fuse #22 powers what they call Battery Saver relay .. When I pull the relay, drain and noise stops. The noise I hear is from behind the dash instrument cluster which tells me something there is pulling the Bat down.

Steve Roddy

Jan. 07, 2011 - 11:13 AM

Not sure what you mean as battery saver relay. Are you talking about charge solenoid between chassis and house battery? As for the items powering up when battery is connected it sounds like an ignition wire has been moved to a hot lead.

Terry (Florida)

Jan. 06, 2011 - 03:39 PM

Still have .70 amps drain on starting battery. Traced to #22 fuse for Instrument Cluster and a few other items. WHen battery is re-connected, I can hear battery saver relay click, then all six instument gage needles waver and a whirring sound from behind the inst. panel.. What could it be?

Terry (Florida)

Jan. 06, 2011 - 03:38 PM

Terry (Florida)

Jan. 06, 2011 - 03:33 PM

Thanks... I plugged all the holes which should keep out most of the water

Steve Roddy

Jan. 06, 2011 - 11:02 AM

Check the location it is mounted for rain water especially while driving in the rain. Move to a drier location or cover if possible.

Terry (Florida)

Jan. 04, 2011 - 07:21 PM

Thanks Steve. Out of curiosity I took that bad solenodi apart. I have never seen such corrosion. It was almost solid rust. It s on a 2005 motorhome with only 14,000 miles. The use it or loose it senario fits. How does the moisture get in?

Steve Roddy

Jan. 04, 2011 - 11:41 AM

The solenoid you found defective is probably the charge solenoid. When replacing make sure it is replaced with a continuous duty with an amperage rating high enough to handle maximum output of the alternator. The best one I have used is found at NAPA auto parts. Ask for a ST85.

Terry (Florida)

Jan. 03, 2011 - 03:49 PM

That wire is not fused. Where it connects to the power dist. panel, it is connected to the alternator. I found a bad solenoid that I m guessing went bad and someone decided to baypass the system by adding that wire.

Steve Roddy

Jan. 03, 2011 - 12:48 PM

Sorry I can not tell you what that wire might be operating. Is it fused at the battery? If not I would say it was added after production as all wiring must be fused at the power source. What does it connect to at the power distribution panel?

Terry (Florida)

Jan. 01, 2011 - 06:32 AM

I ve had a battery drain on my 2005 Four Winds Siesta that has been very troublesome. Everything is off and Battery Disconnect solenoid working. I noticed a wire connected to the house battery positive terminal that runs all the way up front to the Ford power distribution box terminal. I disconnected that wire and all the drain disappeared. Any idea why that wire is there? It certainly does not look as OEM. I purchased the unit three months ago.

Steve Roddy

Oct. 28, 2010 - 08:04 AM

It is important that you find the cause of the boiling. Do you have an inverter/charger or converter? You need to test your charging system and batteries. Some converters are not designed to be left plugged in to shore power all the time. They will have excessive voltage to the batteries causing them to boil. Also defective cells in a battery can cause the boiling. Inverter/chargers need to be programmed to the battery capacity they need to charge to prevent boiling or undercharging. Oil will not prevent boiling it does prevent water loss from evaporization. If you add oil and the batteries are boiling it will just boil the oil out first since it will be on top of the water.

Jim (Hollywood, FL)

Oct. 27, 2010 - 05:36 PM

My house batteries tend to boil over and when the water comes out of the cells, creates an ash in the battery compartment. How do I stop this? A friend said to put and ounce of mineral oil in each cell can I do this and will it help.

Dave (MI)

Oct. 22, 2010 - 05:16 PM

Very helpful. Sure would like to see Ernie detail perhaps the top 10 uses of a multimeter to the RVer.

betterRVing

May. 13, 2010 - 12:50 PM

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Steve Roddy

Apr. 28, 2010 - 12:58 PM

The proper repair depends on extent of water damage. If the wood luan panel is water damaged under the fiberglass this will require some extensive repair. The fiberglass panel will need to be removed or at least pealed back to expose damaged wood for replacement. If it was just enough water to cause delamination then the fiberglass can be reglued (laminated).

Rob (Fayetteville, GA)

Apr. 28, 2010 - 11:20 AM

I need help. I had a small water leak at the top front corner door side on a 2006 Keystone Cougar 294RLS. No water inside the trailer, but outer fiberglass skin delaminated and bubbled. 6 wide and `18 long. Resealed roof, how do I get rid of bubble

ROBERT (RIVERVIEW)

Apr. 15, 2010 - 06:51 PM

THANK YOU STEVE, MY STARTER DID FINALLY FAIL , i WILL INSTALL A HEAT SHIELD.

Steve Roddy

Apr. 15, 2010 - 08:41 AM

GM added a secondary solenoid because of that problem. Too much heat from exhaust. Also if starter has been replaced a high temp starter must be used. If someone used a standard GM starter it will give you that problem. Install an aluminum heat shield between starter and exhaust.

robert (riverview, fl)

Apr. 11, 2010 - 10:51 PM

I have a winne with 454 GM , the starter has intermitten problem of not engaging when turning the key to start. The dash seleniod closes, but the starter seleniod does not. Battery is good. Hot wiring the starter seleniod will make it start. what

Rob (Fayetteville, GA)

Apr. 07, 2010 - 07:29 PM

Has anyone ever converted a dinette in a travel trailer to a table and chair set ? Any pros/cons? I d hate to lose storage or sleeping capacity, it would look nicer, and it would be easier using chairs and not having to slide in and out on a bench.

Bill (newjersey)

Apr. 07, 2010 - 07:00 PM

to isolate draw, pull one 12volt fuse at a time while checking if test light is still showing draw. eventually you will find the fuse that identifies the draw and then you can find what fixtures or items are in line with that fuse. limits guesswork.

Jim Thomas (Lady Lake, Florida)

Mar. 31, 2010 - 11:58 PM

the battery demonstration was excellent. Would like to see more different items on maintenance

Steve Roddy

Mar. 31, 2010 - 08:10 AM

I think 6 months without water is going to be a problem for the batteries. Longer and hopefully warmer sunny days this summer will cause the batteries to evaporate water much quicker. I would leave it disconnected without solar charging and hope for the best next fall. If battery replacement is needed you should look at AGM (glass mat) batteries as an alternative. You mentioned something about air? Hopefully you have made provisions for ventilation during storage? Leaving the air conditioner on is the best but not always possible. If the air conditioners are left on then the batteries will need to be on because most thermostats are 12v operated. At least have roof vent covers installed so the vents can be left open.

Bruce (surrey B.c)

Mar. 30, 2010 - 08:45 PM

There will be nobody to check water level for 6 months and yes charging system is connected so i m looking for best outlook either disconnect batteries and leave solar charging air or leave solar and battery connected and hope for no boiling.

Steve Roddy

Mar. 30, 2010 - 01:01 PM

Leaving the battery disconnect on depends on a few things. Is the solar panel connected directly to the batteries or will the disconnect also eliminate solar charging? Wil the monthly battery maintenance be performed, such as checking water level in the batteries?

bruce (surrey b.c.)

Mar. 30, 2010 - 12:34 PM

Question i have stored my 5th wheel unattended for the summer south. With a 80 watt solar panel should i disconnect bat or not ? I left a small draw on 5 watts please advise thanks ps. i have 4 6 volts

jimc (rhode island)

Mar. 30, 2010 - 03:48 AM

as an old e.t.in the navy, and later with I.B.M. and then Burroughs I had several time tested rules for batts. Turn everything off first. second there is mech. connection and also electrical. keep it clean,lubricate to isolate, monitor voltage.

Steve Roddy

Mar. 29, 2010 - 04:57 PM

Cleaning and lubricating will take care of most slow jack retraction problems. If it does not then it will probably need to have the spring or springs replaced. Are you trying to replace the roof or coat the roof? Roof coating can be applied with a brush or roller.

john (Alice,Tx.)

Mar. 29, 2010 - 03:47 PM

I have a class A M/H one of the jacks does not retrack all the way,I have to bump it to make come up.do you have a solution?also I need to redo the rubber roof. some tell you have spray it on, others asy you can put it on with a roller or a paint ?

Steve Roddy

Mar. 29, 2010 - 08:04 AM

Cleaning and lubricating the jacks should be on your regular maintenance schedule. Probably once a month will prevent problems. I like to use a silicone based lubricant. It does not last as long but it also does not attract dirt as oil will.

Donald (Lieberman)

Mar. 29, 2010 - 07:53 AM

I have a class A Motor home and I had a problem with the jacks returning to the stored position. I extended the shafts on the jacks and cleaned them with wet & dry sand paper (very fine) than I put a light coat of oil on them and they now work fine

Franklin (Miami Gardens, Fl)

Mar. 28, 2010 - 10:10 AM

Very good information and need to know how to correct that problem.

David (Vancouver, WA)

Mar. 28, 2010 - 02:33 AM

I had a problem on my 94 Alpha See Ya 5th wheel, the batterys would drain after about 30 days. I found the slide-out control had a slow draw on the battery. I wired in a knife switch to open the circuit when not in use.

Arnold (Walkertown N.C.)

Mar. 26, 2010 - 06:13 PM

Great Stuff Keep Up The Great Work. Sometime s The Simple Thing s Are The Hardest To Find.

Alton (Alabama)

Mar. 25, 2010 - 08:56 PM

about batteris,you must remember one with a defective cell will cause the charger to continue to charge at a high rate,regardless of level of charge in the good batteries.

Garbage Man Perry (Charlotte)

Mar. 25, 2010 - 04:06 PM

Good to see you Ernie. Maybe Snap Bean Mullis can help you on your next fix.

Steve Roddy

Mar. 25, 2010 - 01:35 PM

Correction on last statement"The RV is not to be operated without these extremely important safety devices functioning".

lynda (nc)

Mar. 25, 2010 - 12:24 PM

Very Helpful as I am experiencing draw down on my battery.

Steve Roddy

Mar. 25, 2010 - 11:51 AM

You are correct co detectors and lp detectors are items that will cause batteries to be dead over a period of time. These items are commonly not wired to be disconnected from battery power. They are required warning devices. The RV is not to be operated with these extremely important safety devices functioning. It is very important that you have a system to put these alarms back in service before using the RV. Another solution is a solar panel to maintain the batteries when in storage.

Steve Roddy

Mar. 25, 2010 - 11:44 AM

If the clock on your microwave is on then you must have an inverter that is on. This would be causing the battery to drain in a week. A converter and battery do not need to be matched. You do however need to know what kind of charging capabilities your converter has. If you have an inverter (microwave clock on - not plugged-in to shore power) then the inverter needs to be programmed so it knows what size of battery bank it is trying to charge. This will not cause batteries to drain. Converter = Changes 110v ac power to 12v dc power Inverter = Changes 12v dc power to 110v ac power and changes 110v ac power to 12v dc power for battery charging

max (lakeland)

Mar. 25, 2010 - 11:36 AM

i knew that

Mike (Dade City, Fl)

Mar. 25, 2010 - 11:30 AM

Our fifth-wheel has a battery cut off switch, which I make sure to turn off when parked in storage. Also, if left connected, pull the fuse for the propane detector. It will draw down the bat in a matter of days if left on in storage.

Rob (Fayetteville, GA)

Mar. 25, 2010 - 11:05 AM

I am having the same problem with my RV battery. I come home from a trip and a week later the battery is dead. I started disconnecting the cables from the battery to stop the draw. There were no lights left on, believe me, I checked and rechecked. Can something like the clock on the microwave kill the battery in a week s time? If not that then I can t find the source of the draw. How do you chck what type battery mates up with your power converter? I thought any deep cycle marine/RV battery was okay. What am I missing here?

Joe Byerly (Greensboro, NC)

Mar. 25, 2010 - 10:07 AM

HI Ernie, I recently bought aused RV on ebay. Was amazed the had a number of problems that needed fixing. I spent day and a half before he got them all repaired. I drove it around 700 miles bringing it home. Three days later the battery was dead. Your lesson taught me how to use a search light and to check things for power draws before calling a mechanic. I know it cannot be the generator, or I would never have made it home on the batteries. Thanks for the tips and I will be looking forward to more. Joe Byerly

Steve Roddy

Mar. 25, 2010 - 08:24 AM

Removing battery caps when charging was the proper thing to do years ago. On present day batteries we want to leave the caps in place and charge at a slower rate. The caps are spark resistant caps to prevent a problem from a gassing battery. Do not remove caps when charging.

Steve Roddy

Mar. 25, 2010 - 08:19 AM

If your RV is equipped with an inverter make sure the inverter is programmed for the size of battery bank you are trying to charge. This is done at the remote panel. If your RV is not equipped with a remote panel then one will need to be connected temporarily to complete programming. The inverter needs to know amp hour capacity of battery bank, wet cell or gel cell batteries and cool or warm climate.

Steve Roddy

Mar. 25, 2010 - 08:15 AM

If you are damaging batteries from overcharging, check the specifications of your converter. Not all converters have automatic chargers that reduce charge rate. Some converters have constant charge rate that will overheat the battery causing it to be damaged. The owners manual of the converter will warn you not to leave RV plugged-in all the time. I would suggest this converter be changed to one with an automatic charger.

Chuck (Clearwater)

Mar. 25, 2010 - 07:51 AM

I love these tips. Short and to the point and easy to remember

Mike (Mass.)

Mar. 25, 2010 - 07:34 AM

What Ernie didn t tell us, is whether or not the unit was plugged into 120v or not. This would have told us if the converter was bad or not. With the unit plugged in, the batter charges, he could had worked on the elec. system and charged the batter

Jimbo (Washington State)

Mar. 25, 2010 - 01:36 AM

It was Kristin who shot J.R., Ernie! Kristin!

Rodger (Florida)

Mar. 24, 2010 - 10:34 PM

good basic knowledge

Dave (Petaluma, CA)

Mar. 24, 2010 - 10:23 PM

Laura, if your battery is burning up you should have your inverter checked to see if it s overcharging the battery. Overcharging can cause the water to boil right out of the battery. The inverter is supposed to sense when your battery is charged.

Gord (Abbotsford)

Mar. 24, 2010 - 09:49 PM

make sure to check the water levels in your batteries and if low, fill with distilled. when charging batteries, always remove caps to release the hydrogen & reduce possible explosions. other advice is helpful!

Jerry (Lakeland Fl)

Mar. 24, 2010 - 08:34 PM

Ernie forgot to tell you. Better be careful after removeing the battery to charge it, cause when hooking it back up on a RV that has a draw on the battery it will arch a spark when hooking the cables back up. That could make the batt blowup on you.

CHRIS (LANCASTER PA)

Mar. 24, 2010 - 08:34 PM

Ernie, we just spent two weeks at Lazy Days and had no problem coming to Florida or while we were there in service. However, we left last Saturday every once in a while all lights in panel lite up like Christmas, gas gauge down but no power loss>>>>?

Alex (El Paso)

Mar. 24, 2010 - 07:32 PM

I had the burned up battery circus. Bad battery charger. If you have one with a big transformer, try for one without it. see CW catalog., or American RV Mart, it is called an electronic upgrade. usually located below the fuses or CBreakers. ,

Dollye (Alabama)

Mar. 24, 2010 - 07:17 PM

Ernie is the best when it comes to Motorhomes whether to purchase or repairs

Laura (El Segundo, CA)

Mar. 24, 2010 - 06:28 PM

I ve been through 4 batteries. Only have one coach battery and they get burned up, why is that?

BILLY (SHERMAN, TX)

Mar. 24, 2010 - 05:43 PM

I AM GOING TO SAVE THESE AND READ LATER. I DONT LIVE IN RV AT THIS TIME BUT HOPE TO AGAIN ONE OF THESE DAYS.............THANKS FOR THIS...bill surles

Nick (Arizona)

Mar. 24, 2010 - 05:20 PM

Good illustraton as to how to think of how a problem should be attacked and solved.

Nick (Arizona)

Mar. 24, 2010 - 05:19 PM

Good illustraton as to how to think of how a problem should be attacked and solved.

Show Next 15 Comments

BY FRED SMITH FEBRUARY 2010

Troubleshootin’ with Ernie

Checking for “Draws” on Your RV’s Battery

Eliminating Battery Corrosion

Plug in, Log On: Part 1

Plug in, Log On: Part 4

How to Access Digital Editions of betterRVing.com

CORRECTION Troubleshootin' With Ernie

Troubleshootin’ with Ernie

Plug In, Log On: Part 3

Troubleshootin’ with Ernie

Plug In, Log On: Part 2

Trouble Shootin’ with Ernie