When Ed and Rachel Barnhart retired in 2004, the intrepid RVers hooked up their Alfa Gold fifth wheel on a mission to see all that God created and man constructed…and find the best pizza in the USA. From the beaches of Seattle, Ed and Rachel set their sights on Maine. From there they would turn south toward the sunshine, only to be greeted by the worst Mother Nature had unleashed in decades. Undaunted, the Barnharts headed off into the sunset, through the southwest and across the Rio Grande to the shores of Mexico’s Sea of Cortez. From sea to shining sea and back again, all in their first year exploring the country they dubbed the “Land of Awes.” In Chapter 19 Ed and Rachel visit Washington D.C tour some famous Virginia battlefields and sample some Shenandoah wine.

Our first campsite in Virginia placed us in an ideal position to visit both Baltimore and Washington D.C. We thoroughly enjoyed Baltimore, which turned out to be a friendly, clean and interesting city. While there we headed to the harbor to tour the USS Constellation, a restored Naval frigate. We have seen several tall ships since arriving on the east coast, but this tour turned out to be the best. The ship itself was in exceptional condition, from spar to hold. While aboard, we learned the difference between a frigate and a sloop. The former has a pair of gun decks while the latter has a single gun deck. Launched in 1854 from Portsmouth, Virginia, Constellation saw service in the Civil War and was a training vessel at the US Naval Academy at Annapolis for over two decades. She remained in service through World War II, briefly serving as flagship of the Atlantic Fleet.

Though we toured Baltimore on our own, we took advantage of a park-sponsored Heritage Tour

Inside the Capitol building
Inside the Capitol building
of D.C. The first stop on our Washington tour was the Capitol building, every bit as impressive and awesome as we expected. In the rotunda, the first thing to catch our eye was the frieze winding around the room. This depicts the history of America from discovery to the Civil War. What looked like carved marble was actually, according to our guide, a painting. Either way, it was spectacularly inspiring!

We heard a funny story about the Old Senate Chamber that proves that not much has changed in the business of politics. The reason for the move to a “new chamber” had to do with a peculiar acoustic phenomenon. As it turned out, if you stood next to John Quincy Adams’ desk, your conversation could be heard clearly at the desk of Millard Fillmore…and vice versa. Because the two major parties of the day got along about as well as they do in our day, the chamber was moved ASAP.

From the Old Senate Chamber we began the Monument and Memorial leg of the tour: Jefferson, Washington, Lincoln, FDR, Arlington and Iwo Jima. From there we visited Ford’s Theater. It was humbling and sobering to stand in the room where President Lincoln was assassinated. We could not help but wonder, as we stood there, how our country would have been different if he had lived to see his full vision realized. For a young nation we have a rich and impressive history. We treasure the opportunity that RVing gives us to see it up close – at our own pace.

We arrived back at our campsite full of appreciative pride to live in the Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave. It may not be perfect, but this great Republic is still the best place on earth. We feel very blessed to be able to explore so much of it!

In the morning we hooked up and headed over to our next temporary home, Haymarket, Virginia. The Greenville Farm Family Campground is located about 35 miles west of D.C. The campground offers amenities including electrical, water and sewer hookups. Not unusual, but what really makes this place special is that the park itself is located on a working farm. To get to the campground you must drive down an access lane through the midst of classic pastoral beauty: barns, corrals, silos, sheds, fields and a farmhouse, all bustling with activity. Sites are large and the entire place exudes a unique rustic charm.

Greenville Farm is very near Manassas Battlefield, where two decisive Civil War battles were

contested. In those two battles, fought just over a year apart, 2,250 Americans killed each other. Nearly 9,500 were injured and over 4,400 were declared missing or captured. The setting is beautifully bucolic, but a solemn quiet descends as you walk on ground hallowed by so many lives. Continuing this theme, we visited other battle sites including Winchester, Harper’s Ferry, which changed hands six times during the war, and Antietam, where the bloodiest day of the war was waged. Over 26,000 casualties were reported.

Our subsequent foray into the countryside was decidedly more frivolous. We cruised through the Shenandoah Valley to the town of Edinburg for the Shenandoah Vineyards Harvest Festival. The annual festival is held at the oldest winery in the Shenandoah Valley and offers displays, seminars, winery tours, live music, carriage rides and a car show. We headed straight for the tasting booth, bringing with us palettes spoiled by the terrific wines the Pacific Northwest. After sampling several very good varieties we took a bottle of their Johannisberg Riesling up to the second story balcony to enjoy the enchanting view of the vineyards below and the Blue Ridge Mountains on the horizon. It was simply idyllic, sipping a prime local vintage while surveying some of God’s most beautiful handiwork.

Of course, it wasn’t all serenity and tranquility. Our quiet moment surrendered to the raucous fun of the grape stomping contest. While Lucy and Ethyl were not in attendance, we did get to see one enthusiastic winner not only stomp, but also twirl, dance and wiggle before simply plopping down in the vat to the thunderous applause of the audience. After a bite to eat we headed back to our campsite in Haymarket with light spirits and easy smiles on our faces. For more information about the annual Shenandoah Vineyards Harvest Festival call 540.984.8699.

The first few days in Virginia have been both reflective and relaxing, a welcome balance of inspiration and information as we continue our journey in the Land of Awes. Our next stop is Mount Vernon…unless Hurricane Ivan has other plans.

Read previous chapters by selecting one of the links below:
Chapter 19 – Washington D.C. & the Shenandoah Valley
Chapter 18 – Ocean Cities & the Jersey Shore
Chapter 17 – Mystic Seaports & Mysterious Mechanical Failure
Chapter 16 – Thunder Bay & the Lobstah Princess
Chapter 15 – Rock Lobstah? Ayuh, it’s Good
Chapter 14 – Historic Boston, The Commons & Uncommon Pizza
Chapter 13 – Plymouth Rock and Saugus Iron
Chapter 12 – At the Atlantic and Around Cape Cod
Chapter 11 – Marches, Mozart and Mozzarella
Chapter 10 – Loving Life on the Road
Chapter 9 – Picturesque Settings & Police Surveillance
Chapter 8 – Erie Museums and Niagara Mist
Chapter 7 – The Amish and Edison
Chapter 6 – Dutch Treats and Bavarian Festivals
Chapter 5 – Two American Icons – Miller Beer and Chicago Pizza
Chapter 4 – Touring the Twin Cities
Chapter 3 – Discovering Middle America
Chapter 2 – A Trip Around the Sun
Chapter 1 –Pacific in the Rearview, We Wave Goodbye