Tolkien wrote: “not all those who wander are lost.”  Ed and Rachel Barnhart are this sentiment sprung to vivid life. When they retired in 2004, the intrepid RVers hooked up their Alfa Gold fifth wheel on a mission to see all that God created and man constructed…and find the best pizza in the USA.  From the beaches of Seattle, Ed and Rachel set their sights on Maine. From there they would turn south toward the sunshine, only to be greeted by the worst Mother Nature had unleashed in decades.  Undaunted, the Barnharts headed off into the sunset, through the southwest and across the Rio Grande to the shores of Mexico’s Sea of Cortez. From sea to shining sea and back again, all in their first year exploring what they call the “Land of Awes.” In Chapter 9 Ed and Rachel explore all 3 Erie Canals, discover another idyllic resort and willingly cooperate with the authorities.

Aquaduct Construction - photo courtesy of Camillus Park website
There is an unusual structure along the highway from Buffalo to Syracuse.  After miles of virtually nothing, it is just there, alone in the upstate New York countryside.  It turned out to be a preserved section of the original Erie Canal.  Nowhere near water, this section of DeWitt Clinton’s Ditch must have been rerouted to make way for the freeway.  We were glad to see that, though “progress” had marched on, this piece of history was being preserved.  

This find caused us to make a “game time decision” to spend our last day in the area at the Erie Canal Museum in Syracuse. When we arrived on Sunday, we practically had the Erie Canal Weighlock building to ourselves. Downtown Syracuse served as a canal junction. Canal tolls were based on cargo weight, so a boat would enter a “weighlock” and settle onto a cradle to be weighed.  The boat and cargo were weighed, the tare (boat weight) deducted and the toll was assessed.  A good crew could complete this entire operation in less than fifteen minutes, keeping the heavy traffic on the Canal speeding along.

Now that we knew a little bit more about the canal system, I asked the docent the question that had prompted the trip: “Did any of the original canal still exist – in working order – today?”  On his information we headed over to Camillus,
Camillus boat tour - photo courtesy of Camillus Park website
New York for a museum tour that included a boat ride along a one-mile stretch of the original canal.  We arrived just in time for the next excursion. A crew was hard at work rebuilding the circa-1844 Nine Mile Creek Aqueduct.  (Author’s Note: According to www.eriecanalcamillus.com the aqueduct construction is now complete).

Regular boat tours run on Sunday afternoons, May through October.  The Park also offers Dinner Cruises on Wednesdays in July and August.  While there is a fee, no reservation is needed to take a boat tour.  However, you must call ahead to reserve your spot for the Dinner Cruises.  Call 315.487.0819 for more information.

The Camillus Canal Museum is housed in what was once Sims’ Canal Store.  Exhibits include an authentic Canal store, a local history wing, a barge display, a detailed description of the building of the Canal and an incredible turn-of-the-century steam engine.  The area around the museum is just as appealing.  Visitors can stroll along the canal or hike through over ten miles of wooded trails in Camillus Erie Canal Park.

At the museum we learned that there were actually three Erie Canals. The project was the brainchild of New York City
Mayor, DeWitt Clinton, who single-handedly championed the vision of a waterway from the Hudson River to Lake Erie.  Controversial and revolutionary for its time, the original – called “Clinton’s Ditch – was also relatively narrow and shallow – only four feet deep. When complete, Clinton’s Ditch revolutionized trade and the transport of goods across the continent; but, with over 80 locks and innumerable curves, it was a terror to navigate.

The second Canal – and the first tabbed “Erie” – reduced the number of locks, nearly doubled the depth and straightened the route considerably.  Much larger ships could now navigate the canal, passing through considerably fewer toll stops along the way.  Considered a watershed breakthrough in its time, the Canal was eventually rendered obsolete by the expanding U.S.
Canal at Chamillus
rail system.  Even still, certain types of cargo still ply the waters of what is now called the New York Barge Canal.

Back on the road we settled at Bass Lake Resort near the town of Parish, New York.  Once more – through dumb luck, God’s Providence or the resort owner’s marketing savvy – we had found another little slice of paradise.  Opened in 1987, Bass Lake is a 244-acre resort located on a 30-acre private lake.  Though the management folks always have activities for both kids and adults to get involved in, one of our favorite things to do at Bass Lake was absolutely nothing.  The resort is gated so there’s an extra feeling of seclusion as you hike the nature trails or sun by the pool.  Most of the nearly-300 sites are back ins, but all are full hookup (water, electric and sewer).  The resort also offers bath and shower facilities and WiFi hotspots in both clubhouses. Bass Lake Resort is located at 132 Crim Road in Parish, New York 13131.  Because they are a private resort, you must belong to the Coast to Coast Network or Resorts of Distinction to stay at Bass Lake.  For information on how to join visit www.eastcoastresortsofamerica.com or call 315.625.4101.

Parish Home
Parish is a remarkable little village.  The streets are lined with huge Victorian homes, mills and gorgeous Upstate scenery. You may want to avoid the area during winter, however.  It is, after all, New York State.  We saw several buildings with sagging roofs and other damage as a result of the previous winter’s severe weather.  The being said, in late summer and early fall, Parish is stunning.  We spent the afternoon in the Parish library researching the history of the town, and then we drove ten miles to Mexico.  Established in 1782, Mexico, New York, is north of Parish on the way to Oswego.  Arriba!  Just off the highway we spotted the second working nuclear reactor we have seen on our trip.

Oswego is a historic city on the shores of Lake Ontario.  It boasts several large plants, a fort, a port and a Coast Guard Station.  The waterfront is engaging, a terrific photo opportunity…or so we thought.  As we were snapping away, we were approached by a nice police officer who asked rather pointed questions about the nature of our photography.  “No,” we assured him, “We were not snapping pictures of the Coast Guard station.  We were capturing the charming scene of boats in the harbor.”  I “may have” also mentioned that we took a few shots of the nuclear plant to send back to some friends in Washington, where a few over-zealous but well-meaning folks successfully shut down the entire multi-billion-dollar Washington Public Power Supply System.

After exchanging identification – he showed us his badge and we showed him our driver’s licenses and a few digital photos – he was certain we were not terrorists and we were allowed to go on our way.  Looking back I wish I’d gotten a picture of the policeman.  That would have been a great addition to our New York album!

In our next chapter, we will take a break from the tales of places we’ve been and share some stories about what “life” has been like on the road so far…





Read previous chapters by selecting one of the links below:

Chapter 8 - Erie Museums and Niagara Mist
Chapter 7 – The Amish and Edison
Chapter 6 – Dutch Treats and Bavarian Festivals
Chapter 5 – Two American Icons – Miller Beer and Chicago Pizza
Chapter 4 – Touring the Twin Cities
Chapter 3 – Discovering Middle America
Chapter 2 – A Trip Around the Sun
Chapter 1 – Pacific in the Rearview, We Wave Goodbye