The beer float during Oktoberfest
Though it’s perhaps a bit too cheesy to be called charming, this tiny Alpine hamlet in the north Georgia foothills maintains a strong tribe of loyal fans, and I count myself among them. While the feel of the town and its many festivals evoke the town’s Bavarian theme, the vibe in the spring off-season is undoubtedly American.

The crowds are down and shopkeepers seem more relaxed when they can play down the Alpine theme park attitude and just act like folks from Georgia. So, while Helen is undoubtedly fun during the six-week marathon Oktoberfest celebrations and storybook pristine from the November Christkindlmarkt through the December Christmas season, there is still much to enjoy here in the relative peace of late April. Sure, some shops are closed and others operate on somewhat arbitrary schedules, but you can still have tons of fun.

THE STORY BEHIND THE STORYBOOK TOWN

Helen during December
Gold was discovered at Dahlonega Creek in 1828. Thousands of miners flooded the valley. Today, though the commercial mines are long deserted, visitors may still try their luck at roadside panning stations in and around Helen.

When the mining companies moved on, the timber industry moved in. Matthews Lumber Company continued sawmill operations until 1931. Then they too moved on. By the 1960s Helen was a ghost town, little more than empty concrete buildings. The few remaining businessmen met and hatched an audacious marketing plan that would prove the salvation of the twice-abandoned boom town.

Empty buildings were given a Bavarian makeover, based on an artist’s rendering of Helen’s adopted “sister city” Füssen, Germany. Shops, hotels and restaurants were trimmed with storybook panache and painted with murals celebrating both Germany and North Georgia. Appalachian foothills stood in for the Alps and Helen was reborn as a slice of Deutschland near Dahlonega.

WHAT TO SEE & DO

Tube down the river with your best friend.
Cool River Tubing (www.coolrivertubing.com) – Operates daily Memorial Day through Labor Day, but is open on offseason weekends, weather permitting. Cruise down the river in inflated neon or take a two-hour nap and call it an adventure sport. Located at 590 Edelweiss Strasse Helen, GA 30545. For reservations visit the website or call 800.896.4595.

Lindenhaus Imports (www.lindenhausimports.com) – James and Julia Wiese run this incredible little shop filled with European imports. Impressive clocks, unique toys and intriguing knickknacks. James offered to allow our sticky-fingered toddler to play with one of their hand-painted Russian nesting dolls. The little guy fell in love with the toy, and we were likewise charmed by the management. 8669 N. Main St. in Helen. 706.878.2357.

Georgia Heritage Art Association (www. experiencegeorgiaarts.org) – Exhibits include painting, photography, woodworking, fiber arts, jewelry, kudzu weaving, pottery and glass. Stop by for a daily demonstration or just browse the locally made creations. 8016 S. Main St. in Helen. 706.892.1033.

The Glassblowing Shop (www.theglassblowingshop.com) – Scott Warner manages this remarkable little slice of souvenir trade. Wares range drastically in price and scope and each has its own unique elegance. The real treat here, though, is the daily glassblowing demonstration. These folks have artists’ eyes and surgeons’ hands. 8600 N. Main St. in Helen. 706.878.3156.

WHERE TO EAT

  • Hofbrau Riverfront (www.riverfronthotel.com) – From frog legs to goulash to wurst platters, lobster tail and trout straight from the Georgia mountain streams, there is a culinary adventure waiting here for just about any palate. 9001 Main St. in Helen. 706.878.2248.
    The Old Heidelberg
  • Hofer’s Bakery & Café (www.hofers.com) – Your waistband expands just walking in the door, but it’s well worth it. Stellar breakfasts and scrumptious lunches, washed down with imported German coffee or beer, followed by made-from-scratch desserts. Stop by for a loaf of hearty black bread for your afternoon picnic. Located at 8758 N. Main St. in Helen. 706.878.8200.
  • Nacoochee Village Tavern (www.villagetavernpizza.com) – The ads read “real pizza, real people, real good.” In our experience, it’s all true. If you are a pizza fan, definitely stop here for a pie and a cold one. This may also be the only place in Georgia where visitors from north of the Mason-Dixon Line can get “Yankee Unsweet Tea.” 7275 S. Main St. in Helen. 706.878.0199.
  • Old Heidelberg (oldheidelberg.yolasite.com) – Authentic German fare cooked up by an authentic German chef, plus 50 different beers and wines. 8660 N. Main St. in Helen. 706.878.3273.

SIDE TRIPS

Anna Ruby Falls – Curtis and York Creeks collide, creating the twin cascades that make up these falls. Water from Anna Ruby then flows into the Chattahoochee River via Smith Creek and, eventually into the Apalachicola River in Florida, where it winds its way to the Gulf of Mexico. If you are staying at Unicoi campground or visiting the park, you can tackle the 4.6-mile Smith Creek Trail to the falls. But it is, quite literally, a bit of a hike. For a much easier approach, park near the falls and pay $2 per person to stroll a paved half-mile. Anna Ruby Falls is located at 3455 Anna Ruby Falls Rd., Helen, GA 30545.

Babyland General Hospital (www.cabbagepatchkids.com) – The birthplace of the world-famous Cabbage Patch Kids. If you are traveling with young girls you just have to go. Admission into this plantation-style “hospital” is free and there are new “deliveries” daily. Located at 300 N. O.K. Drive, Cleveland, GA 30528. Call 706.865.2171.

Enjoy the views by carriage

Elfmade Wooden Toys (www.northgeorgiaelfworks.com) – This is Santa’s satellite office, and yes, the woodcarver plays the jolly man in the red suit from time to time. But the real treats here are the incredible wooden toys. Most are handcrafted from mill scraps, and these playthings will bring out the little boy in any man. Clever designs. Endless fun. It doesn’t get any better. 2454 Hwy 17, Sautee Nacoochee, GA 30571. Call 706.878.0010.

Historic Nacoochee Village (www.nacoocheevillage.com) – A day trip unto itself, this little shopping excursion just outside downtown Helen is a worthwhile departure from the beaten path. Enticements include:

  • The Chattahoochee Candle Company
  • The Willows Pottery
  • Unicoi Outfitters (fly fishing shop and guide service)
  • Habersham Winery (check out the tasting room)
  • Nacoochee Grill – hand-cut steaks, fresh seafood on a live fire grill
  • Nora Mill – grains, gifts and plenty for your sweet tooth
    Anna Ruby Falls

Unicoi State Park & Lodge (www.gastateparks.org/Unicoi) – In addition to the regular nature programs offered by park rangers, visitors may hike or bike mountain trails leading either back into Helen or up to Anna Ruby Falls. While there, be sure to stop by the lodge gift shop to browse locally made quilts, pottery and other gift ideas. Additional activities include geocaching, kayaking, bird watching, fishing (docks only), lake swimming and golf (800.573.9659). Oh, and you can camp there as well. See WHERE TO STAY for details.

WHERE TO STAY

Creekwood Resort (www.creekwoodresort.com)

Robert and Melissa, the unfailingly hospitable owners of this charming little mountain resort, live on site. Each of the 17 RV sites is on a 30×10 concrete slab with fire rings and picnic tables nearby. Clean bathhouse and laundry facility. Nice picnic area alongside the creek. Visit the excellent interactive website for a virtual tour and a campground photo tour.

  • Full hookups: Water, sewer & electric (20, 30, 50 amp)
  • WiFi & Cable TV (get code at office)
  • No pull thrus, but room for the big rigs with some sites at 70 ft.
  • Family friendly
  • Pet friendly

Located at 5730 Highway 356 Sautee, Georgia 30571. GPS: 34.74294, -83.682091. For reservations call 706.878.2164.

Unicoi State Park (www.gastateparks.org/Unicoi)

Unicoi in the Fall
The campground is part of the larger Lodge and Park complex and offers 84 campsites. About a dozen are full hookup. Shady sites, but most are a bit tight for the big rigs. A few are manageable. Clean facilities and strong (but not overwhelming) ranger presence. No cable or Wi-Fi and you will likely have limited cell service. In other words, perfect!

  • Some full hookups: Water, sewer & electric (50 amp)
  • No pull thrus, but some big rig access
  • Nearby creek but no waterfront sites
  • Family friendly
  • Pet friendly

Register at the Lodge office. Located at 1788 Highway 356 Helen, GA 30545. GPS: N 34.723033, W 083.722300. Register online or call 800.864.7275.

Unicoi Springs Camp Resort (www.unicoisprings.com)

Unicoi Trading Post
A Coast-to-Coast member-owned campground. Gated entrance promises security and privacy while the rocking chairs on the clubhouse’s front porch invite community. All 300 sites feature concrete pads with a patio or deck. Some of the members are quick to fill you in on the “campground rules” if they think your little ones might step out of line. Otherwise this is a very nice campground in a beautiful location.

  • Full hookups: water, sewer & electric (50 amp)
  • Wi-Fi & Cable TV
  • Pull thru sites & big rig access
  • Lakefront sites & swimming pool
  • Family & pet friendly

Located at 2444 Hwy 356 N Helen, GA 30545. GPS: 34.722157, -83.731843. For reservations or membership information call 706.878.2104.

Everything full or looking for something a little different? For additional camping options near Helen or Unicoi, visit http://www.helenga.org/accommodations/campgrounds.

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